Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Orange Candied Yams and Orange White Chocolate Cookies

Rob made candied yams today, with orange in it.  The recipe asks for a lot of sugar, which he cut, but the orange juice came from a large orange, that is apparenlty South African, since they are not in season here.  Please don't talk to me about food that is grown more than 100km away from home.  That is not a topic to discuss today.

The oranges were beautiful.  So utterly orange.  The zest and juice had an amazingly bright flavour.  The yams were cooked in orange sauce in the oven.  Delicious.

The other day, my daughter announced she had to bake cookies for a contest amongst her friends.  They were standing around, boasting about who made the best cookies, and she said to me, "I just had to get involved!"

So we were allowed to discuss it with her all weekend, but she made the final decision on ingredients, methodology and clean up!  She said she had to do it from start to finish, including cleaning up.  This made me very happy.

She chose to use the classic Tollhouse Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe, but instead of semi-sweet chips, she carefully cut a bunch of white chocolate chunks in half to make them the right size, and added the zest of one of those wonderful oranges.  She laboured long and hard.  She shaped them all herself and made 3 batches, each with slightly different baking times, so she could choose the ones with the best texture. 

Rob felt they were on the sweet side, but everyone else loved them.  I generally prefer softer, chewy cookies, but the crunchy ones were great.  A glass of milk made them taste even better.  The younger brother ate all the rejects - and there were quite a few, so he didn't feel so well later.

So what happened?  She won the contest, although in the end there was only one other contestant.  The teacher got to decide.  More cookies were shared out to the rest of the class so everyone was happy.  This may be the start of a number of bake-offs.  They seem to be a competitive bunch at school.  If that's the case, I will start charging for ingredients, just to keep this all under control.  We shall see.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Family Dinner Reprised with Chiffon Cake

Recently, we went back for another dinner at Mom's.  Not a holiday meal, so no celebratory overtones. The parent's household consists of Mom and Pop and my brother with wife and kids.  They also have a housekeeper who started with them recently.

'Ha,' I thought, 'I will bake a coffee chiffon cake since coffee is so popular, and give them no choices!'

"But Mommy," said my daughter, "I thought a coffee cake didn't have coffee in it!"  So there were a few explanations about a coffee cake with coffee in it versus a coffee cake to have with coffee.  Why is life so complicated?

Rob brewed me an extra strong cup of coffee which I left to cool.  I like my eggs to come to room temperature if possible.  If I am in a rush, I put them in a bowl of warm water, straight from the fridge.

One thing I find invaluable when separating a large number of eggs is my trusty egg separator.  I bought it when I was a teenager and rescued it back from my mother long after I married.  Since I like to use those omega 3 eggs, the shells are very brittle and the shards are very sharp, easily poking through the yolk sack and breaking it; a problem when you are trying to get as much white to separate so you get a fluffy, tall cake.

The other device I love so much is my Kitchen Aid stand mixer.  The egg whites really do beat up higher than with the hand held mixer.  And I can leave it alone to do the job while I attend to the yolk batter.  This speeds up chiffon cake making incredibly for me, and I'm pretty fast.

The most important instruction to follow is the sifting of the flour.  I prefer using cake flour and I sift it first with a sieve, and then measure it.  I've tried all kinds of cake sifters, and the sieve does a better job.  If I am feeling very energetic, I will sift the flour, sugar and baking powder again after I've measured the ingredients.  Sometimes I will sift it a third time, especially if I have to make do with all purpose flour.

All the cookbooks talk about folding technique.  For me, folding the batter with the egg whites is much easier if the bowl is closer to waist level, not at the countertop.  If there is no alternative, I will put the bowl in the sink.  Otherwise, one tends to stir as the arm gets tired when crooked at an odd angle because the bowl is too high.  The one advantage of the countertop is that if I fold the batter until I feel like my arm will fall off, it's about the right amount of mixing.  At a lower height, I actually have to look at the batter more carefully to see if it's properly integrated.

The oven should be well and truly preheated.  Turn it on at least a half hour beforehand if possible.  I also use the rack which is a touch closer to the bottom of the oven than the one which is right in the middle of the oven.  This makes sense since the cake is so tall that it's really on the high side if you put the bottom of the pan at the centre.  And that rule about not opening the oven door until the cake is almost done is also a good one to follow.  Oh, and turning the cake upside down when it comes out.

In the end, a chiffon cake is mostly following the rules.  It's one of those cakes which simply work best if you don't cut too many corners and do it classically.  It's surprisingly easy to make once you realize that's all you have to do:  follow the instructions.

Well the chiffon cake won them over.  Everyone liked it.  As successive slices wore away the upstanding cake, it looked more tired and stooped.  "I could eat this cake all night!"  declared the housekeeper.  She pinched a small piece from the cake and it quivered.  She reached over and pinched it again.  The cake shook hard.  She reached again...

I couldn't watch.  I had to leave.  I don't know what happened to the cake remains - surely, she eventually put it out of its misery.  The sheer violence of the housekeeper's thumb and forefinger, grasping at that tender, fluffy tower as it swayed to her torture caused my heart to palpitate.  Why didn't the woman simply cut herself a slice and put it on a plate?

Well, perhaps I will go back to trifles for the next holiday.  There is nothing pitiful about trifle remains.  They scream, "Eat me!"  And so we do.

Monday, October 11, 2010

The Kids Turned Down My Jello Creation; A Squash Soup Dinner.

As Thanksgiving meals go, there was too much yummy food and a bunch of boisterous kids.  I brought dessert.  'Ah ha!'  I thought to myself,  I will be the extra popular aunt, because I will bring a fancy Jello creation for the children, and coffee trifle for the adults, and everyone will be happy.

Well, there was an argument with the daughter first, about which colour jello I was allowed to use.  "But," I said, "It would look better if I used the red jello with the green and yellow!"  She pouted, "No!  All the red berry flavours belong together!"  I was distracted, so I agreed to use the orange jello in place of red. 

So.  We all know how to make jello, right?  I very lightly greased a round glass bowl, and made green jello.  Then after some fussing, Rob suggested the silicone spatula (non-skid) to prop up the bottom of the bowl, so I could tilt it while the jello set, getting an angled line.  I sprinkled marshmallows on top.  After a few hours, I looked at it, and there was a fine, grainy powdery looking substance on the bottom of the bowl.  The marshmallows had shed and my green jello had white murky streaks.  'Looks kind of cool,' I thought.  The yellow was next, with the bowl upright, leaving a small wedge of green sticking up beyond it.  This was eventually covered with the orange, which set into a lovely, glassy surface.  I triumphantly covered it with plastic wrap, dreaming of accolades from the adults.  Happy begging from the children.  "More!" they would shout, "We LOVE your jello creation.  PLEASE, give us more!"

Meanwhile, I threw together the coffee trifle.  I made a vanilla custard with low fat milk and omega 3 eggs (whole), some cornstarch and sugar.  Once it had thickened, I added vanilla extract and Tia Maria liqueur and covered it directly on the surface with plastic wrap.  This gets rid of the 'skin'.  When everything was cool, I folded it with whipped cream.  In a glass pan I covered the bottom with savoiardi biscuits dipped in strong coffee.  Layered with the custard cream, I was done.  Into the refridgerator overnight and that was that.  It took very little time.

I showed off my beautiful jello in a bowl to everyone before dinner.  "The orange kind of blends into the yellow and it's hard to tell the layers," said Rob.  Well, what can I expect from someone who is married to me?  "What are those weird white lumps in the jello?" asked my niece.  At least she was happy to find out they were marshmallows. 

After two tries, the jello wiggled and jiggled and came out, more or less intact.  Rob had earlier taught me the importance of breaking the seal but I was unsuccessful the first try, so the jello tore slightly.  Immediately, I was surrounded with eager children with plates and spoons.  They all wanted to try the jello!  They were so happy!  I was so happy!  A few kids did point out the yellow and orange were hard to tell apart, even after it came out of the mold, but what did they know?

I gave some jello to my mother, who promptly said, "I don't like green, so don't give me too much green!"  Fortunately the angles worked in her favour I gave her very little.  Then I pulled out the coffee trifle, and offered her some too.  There was a pause in the noise.  I looked around me.  I was surrounded by munchkins all holding out their plates.  "We want to try the coffee thing too!" they said.  So I grudgingly spooned very small amounts onto their plates.  "You won't sleep at night if you have too much.  There's coffee in it," I said.

I began to move towards the adults, only to find myself confronted by plates held up at my waist level.  "It's really good, we want more!"  they joyfully cried.  "But don't you want more jello?"  I asked them.  "No, the trifle is MUCH better!"  The children chased me around the kitchen all the way to the adult table.  They fought over how much I gave out and squawked long and loudly if they felt unfairly treated.  The adults also enjoyed the coffee trifle.  There was barely enough.  I had to guard the trifle against small hands and arms, reaching for more, more! 

Sadly, there was leftover jello.  My brother said, "The kids will always go for taste over presentation!"  I know he's wrong.  The kids have always delighted in fun looking food, but no longer.  They demand quality too.  The next family gathering will require double trifles - strawberry and coffee.  Bland looking dishes with nothing to recommend their appearance, until eaten.  I will have to rethink my strategy in the future.

+++++++++++++++++

I wish to remember an amazing meal we had the other day, but I had no time to write about it.  Rob makes squash soup in the fall and winter.  He roasts butternut squash with onions and cooks it in chicken broth with seasonings - herbs we grow in the garden, usually sage.  The he uses a hand blender to puree it. 

On a blustery night, we had squash soup with sasquatch bread, toasted and buttered.  The piece de resistance was  the plate of gruyere and ementhal cheese Rob put out.  I love the taste of gruyere, I love the taste of squash soup, and I love the taste of sasquatch bread.  It is amazingly exciting all put together.  If the soup is not sweet enough, Rob adds a little maple syrup.  Just a little bit.  Ahh.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Cheese Souffle From Heaven

Tonight, Rob decided to make a plain cheese souffle.  Most of the time, he will add spinach, or smoked salmon, or something else delicious.  This time, we had some "Snowman" gruyere cheese I had inexplicably not eaten!   I love gruyere cheese, and this was very good quality.  A shame to waste on cooking.

The souffle was probably one of the best I have experienced.  It puffed up wonderfully high since there was nothing else weighing it down.  It smelled heavenly and tasted divine.  I may even sacrifice a future chunk of my good gruyere in the future...

The children wanted a Ceasar salad.  Nothing fancy here - plain romaine, bottled dressing and premade croutons.  However Rob grated real reggiano for it, and one kid added lemon juice to the bottled dressing, and outside of the overabundance of croutons, it was actually pretty good.  And the extra acid was a little nod to that GI thing.

We did not have dessert after such a decadent meal.  But if we did, I wonder what it would have been?

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Juicy Peaches, Feeling Orange

Coming to the end of peach season, we got a batch of peaches that were not that great.  Sugared, they languished in the fridge.  Rob will tell you that I go to great lengths to use up ingredients, even if it means going out to buy more ingredients.

This time, I decided to cake the peaches and be done with it.  The biggest challenge was how to deal with soggy peach slices and the decision to shore up the fruit content with frozen blueberries, which would also melt and add more blue liquid to the mess on the bottom of the cake.

When a juicy fruit of any kind is used on the bottom of a coffee cake, the problem is that the batter 'boils' in the fruit juice and becomes soggy.  This is not so offensive if eaten while warm, but I dislike the texture once cooled.  If the cake is left out a few days, then mold grows more quickly in this medium as well.  Yuck.  One must note that I am not talking about a fruit crisp here, where the extra liquid is welcome.

Cornstarch to the rescue!  I simply added a tablespoon to the batter, mixing it in with the dry ingredients, and this did a wonderful job of sopping up the extra juices and producing a cake with a good texture next to the fruit. 

If there is no cornstarch on hand, then some pastry flour mixed with the all purpose flour component is acceptable, but this is more complicated since one needs to account for the fact that cake flour and all purpose flour is not substituted at a 1:1 ratio.  Admittedly, I just eyeball it.  Sometimes, if I wish to alter the texture of a cake, I will mix all purpose and pastry flours, but this is a discussion best left for a different post, since I am very fervent about it.

On another topic, my kids wanted chocolate chip cookies, but my daughter was feeling orange.  I bought her a large orange, and she zested it and added it to her cookie dough.  Such a simple addition, but what a difference it made to the ordinary Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe (although she argues that she produces cookies which are far from ordinary).

Monday, September 20, 2010

Comfort food.

"Can you wait at least a half hour?"  I ask the kids, as we troup into the house.  "Dinner won't be ready for up to 45 minutes."  They chorus their assents, and take off to do the sorts of things they do while waiting for food.

After a long, rather difficult day at work, who doesn't crave comfort food?  Unfortunately, Rob was not around to provide it tonight, so I had to rise to the challenge.

Rob claims that every Chinese girl he met at university had a rice cooker.  I refrain from trying to figure out how many girls he became acquainted with well enough to learn this 'fact', but I remain skeptical that his sample size was large enough to create a statistical norm.  The mind wanders.

Anyway, this is a dish I used to make with a friend while we were living in our dormitories, and wanted a late night snack.  In those times, we used canned niblet corn, because we did not always have access to refrigeration, but now, I use frozen corn.  Less sodium, and every bit as good. 

What am I talking about?  A combination of rice, Chinese sausage cut in bite size pieces and corn.  That's it!  You add a little extra water to the rice after you've washed it, and throw the other two ingredients in the pot.  Turn the rice cooker on and walk away for about 20 minutes and check.  When the 'rice cooking' button pops up, you stir the mixture and unplug the cooker.  (Everyone knows that you can't just eat the rice immediately after the button pops up, right?)  Leave the rice mix for at least ten minutes, and spoon out and serve. 

I only cut up 3 sausages, and there was not quite enough with a starting point of 2 cups raw rice.  I should have put in more corn too - probably at least 2 cups.  How was I to know the kids would like it as much as their mother?

Now I know my kids will be fine when they go away to university.  A rice cooker is not just for girls, but Rob probably never spent time checking out the boys.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Bacon and Tomato Sandwiches, Variations, Chicken Wings

Back to school and here we are, rushing to make lunches, eat breakfast and out the door.  But there are a few things we do like about early September.

The tomatoes still taste like real tomatoes.  They are sweet, juicy and flavourful.  And of course, Rob makes his wonderful, to die for, Bacon and Tomato Sandwiches.  No, I am not missing the 'L' for lettuce.  This is no discussion of healthful gastronomy.  This is indulgence.

Rob crisps up the bacon in the microwave.  He uses the ordinary thin sliced stuff, so it is not too filling and difficult to chew.  He slices the tomatoes thickly.  Good cheddar cheese.  Good quality bread, whole wheat or otherwise.  That's it!  He spreads a bit of mayo on the bread, melts the cheese on the tomatoes and assembles with the bacon.  "Daddy has Sandwich Powers!"  say the kids.  How right they are.

Over the weekend, Rob also put together some fresh foccacia with ham, tomatoes and cheese (cacciacavallo), then grilled it all.  It's really the same formula each time, with different actors.  It's like the fashion equivalent of 'uniforms.'  You find something that works for you and then you go crazy on the variations.

I also bought a few bartlett pears.  They were a little hard and quite green.  What a difference it makes, in 3 days!  Sweet, juicy ripeness that explodes as you chew.   There are also a few peaches left.  What a life we enjoy at the end of summer.

But since I haven't posted for a few days, I have to mention the chicken wings.  Rob loves his new grill, and usually I am in charge of marinading the meat.  When he asked me to do it, I refused.  I told he needed to do something new, something different!  So he did. 

He made a rub - salt, garlic, chipotle, chili powders.  When the wings had been almost finished on the grill, he brushed them with molasses and honey to add a little sweetness.  Not much, but enough on the tastebuds.  We were all so happy one kid had a cold.  More for the rest!